"Anna Parsons, 21, is recovering in the hospital after a brutal 80-foot fall on August 1 on a Yosemite ultra-classic, Half Dome's Snake Dike (5.7 R). Its a hard place to climb. If a bad-enough fall occurs, even if its one in a million, that and that alone should be all that we need to justify changing a route to make it safer. A pitch up, something seemed off, consult with my partner, made the decision to leave gear and back off. Half Dome boasts an unreal summit, 5,000' of rise from the Yosemite Valley floor and amazing views of the Yosemite and the High Sierra. There was nothing else left at the anchor. Further, given the amount of attention this accident received in the climbing world, I think its rational to assume that the word is now out about Snake Dike, i.e., that its a serious undertaking in spite of its moderate grade. I wouldn't. They are steep in places and would require downclimbing.potentially in the dark if you are doing it after snake dike. You can see its spine as a ridge along the top of its body, and its ribs will be visible through its skin. Wherever these lie isnobody elses fault.. I got scared shitless lots of times on El Cap, too. After gym/sport climbing became the norm, climbers no longer understood the old trad credo that it isnt real till theres skin in the game. I just backed off of an R route today. None of them want to see the Bachar-Yerian retro-bolted, of course. Hoping she's able to get home to NZ quick. The sun was setting behind Glacier Point as Mason finished leading the thirdpitch. And yet just a few years ago, a woman died falling down the Cables Route. Its unlikely that your snake died due to anemia brought on by parasites, provided that the condition is being treated. It just presented the dike, the point where the double-bolted anchor was on the dike, said Evans, and then an arrow pointing past that, which just said: No. The Gravity Of Witnessing Death On El Cap, 10 Scientifically Supported Climbing Workouts to Increase Strength and Power, Weekend Whipper: Bolt Hanger Falls OffWith the Climber Attached. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. I'll climb R only in areas I'm very familiar with the rock. He immediately returned to the belay and called Yosemite Search & Rescue. up until a year old or so this can happen in kings and corns. The gate was open and the locking sleeve was screwed into the locked position, which prevented the gate from closing. And do you retro-bolt to modern sport standards or just turn routes from X to R or PG-13, or from R to PG-13, or..? Are they merely protecting the egos of a few people, some of whom are dead? It's named so because it follows a dike that snakes its way up the dome, creating positive holds for climbers to grab onto on an otherwise blank granite. See above. According to The Veterinary Nurse, scale rot is a condition caused by the snake sitting in a damp substrate for an extended period of time. The fact that every route is not to our liking is nobodys fault, and we cant arbitrarily go changing things to meets our needs, tastes, orstandards; the world doesnt work like that. To be clear, whats at stake here is the establishment of a principle for updating old routes that have been climbed thousands of times. Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies. I just heard from a grief-stricken friend of the deceased but his details were foggy. Her sister, Jessica, set up a donation page to raise funds to help cover her bills, including for the prosthesis, treatment, and rehab. Its not the worst argument, but there are obvious problems to it. It might not be the most poisonous snake, but thanks to its unique spit and strike attack technique, the Asian Cobra is responsible for more human deaths than any other snake on the planet. The default position is that the first ascentionist has the final say, forever and even in death? A doctors' "death diary" shows exactly how it feels to pass away after being bitten by a snake. But does that really make sense? Snake Dike, 5.7 R Glacier Point Apron Sentinel Rock Steck Salath, 5.10b Lower Cathedral Spire South by Southwest, 5.11a Higher Cathedral Spire Regular Route, 5.9 Higher Cathedral Rock Braille Book, 5.8 Northeast Buttress, 5.9 Middle Cathedral Rock East Buttress, 5.10c or 5.9 A0 Kor-Be ck, 5.9 Central Pillar of Frenzy, 5.9 DNB, 5.11 or 5.10 A0 R The other camp meanwhile believes strongly that the right ethics in this situation would demand we agree as a community to fix what could be called a pointlessly large runout on a relatively easy rock climb and hopefully prevent another similar horror. Given that we are all twidd. (Snake Hissing Meaning), Why Do Snakes Attack Themselves? [The doctors] told her that without it, her foot was damaged beyond repair. She could opt to have the foot fused, but shed only be able to walk with a severe limp for the rest of her life, much less hike, run, surf, or climb. Aside from human beings, of course. For many climbers, this is number one on t. But if some experienced climbers went in and say they analyzed the route, and decided to add a couple bolts, (hell, even just 1), (though a small gesture and wouldnt ultimately mitigate all risk anyways), would the part of the public be somewhat appeased feeling that their voices were heard? Stress causes repetitive behaviors, such as the snake rubbing its nose against the glass of the enclosure. Large and small bleeding was found throughout his body. is a well-known but extremely run-out moderate slab route, and pitches often feature 40 to 50 feet of climbing between bolts, with scant placements for pro. I just climbed a 5.5 that was ran out about 25 feet and I was shitting my pants so bad, there were 2 ledges below me and above my last bolt. Is there a stronger principle for why routes shouldnt be changed that scales from route to route, and area to area? Tired of crowds? Not as my second climb in a new area. He fell about 10 feet and twisted his ankle. Their journey began on Sunday, August 26, when they hiked to the backcountry campground at Little Yosemite Valley. Yeah irrespective of where you fall on the "this should have more bolts!" It would only add 45 min - 1hr of hiking. Somewhere between 81,000 and 138,000 people die each year worldwide from snake bites. In the Climbing article, Peter Croft suggests that certain printed and online guidebook descriptions belie the seriousness of climbing Snake Dike, thereby enticing those who arent up to par into a potential death trap. Or would we bolt a 5.11 only with a 5.11-capable leader in mind?. They told the whole story, unfortunately Angela simply didn't clip in to the 3rd pitch anchor properly, leaned back, and fell to her death. I cant help but wonder if this whole internet debate is just a byproduct of outrage culture. (Except occasional glass surfing when hungry) what could be wrong? But you can choose to not get on that kind of route, right? "Slight bleeding is now going on in the bowels," he writes. He found Angela below and climbers right of the base of the climb. Retrobolting Snake Dike on Half Dome would make it safer, but for who and at what price? Climbing: Along those lines, would we closely bolt a 5.11 so its safe for a 5.9 leader? He was fine, eating and exploring but suddenly acted off and passed 4 days later. Also, are the Snake Dike FAers still alive? Should it be replaced by a gondola? In other areas, holds and chips are breaking off (less relevant to snake dike specifically). Your email address will not be published. The ensuing fall broke countless bones in her body, and she opted to have her left leg amputated below the knee (her foot had been mangled beyond repair, plus her talus bone was missing as a result of the impact). These days, there should be routes for people to learn onfor kids and families and novices. And once at the South Face, there is a splendid series of ledges that are nearly as much fun as Snake Dike itself. Want To Avoid Crowds On Great Yosemite Moderates: Do These Five Routes, Heres Why You Shouldnt Be (Too) Afraid to Visit Yosemite. AsSam climbed toward Angelas position, they heard her scream and watchedas she tumbled down therock face. The prey will literally fight for its life. Ive spoken with a lot of people whove strayed way off route on that one and ended up on very runout, much harder climbingin one case, having to belay with no anchor on a tiny ledge. And how to define retro-bolt anyways is up for debate as well (like where and how many bolts). Options do seem to exist for dealing with the actual issue here in the aftermath of this accident. From that perspective, this whole discussion is a reactive one. Have you ever put up routes like this, or how do you feel about them? Sometimes, a respiratory infection affects the throat and lungs. This results in a lack of iron. After her fall Angelas PAS/runner system was still girth-hitched to her harness. It was raining a little bit before we started climbing, said Evans, but we gave it a bit and the sky cleared. He took the lead for the first section, with Parsons later tying in for the 5.7 slab crux pitch. Oftentimes there has been some community blowback, but Ive usually been able to help stop the lynch mob before they get too excited. 2023 SnakesForPets.com. We spoke with Peter Croft, the Bishop, Californiabased guide, guidebook author, and free-solo legend; Pete Takeda, former Valley hardman and the editor of Accidents in North American Climbing; John Long, the writer, Stonemaster, and California-granite free-climbing icon; Jeff Jackson, former editor of Rock & Ice and one of the most prolific bolters around; and Dougald MacDonald, former editor of Climbing, the current editor of the American Alpine Journal, and a well-traveled, highly experienced all-around climber and alpine polymath. Each species has a different life span: If your snake reached the average age for their species, then its feasible that your snake died of old age. Consider the fact that on the other side of Half Dome, there is literally a bolted stair case with guard rails on it, ensuring that anyone who can hike at a competent level can also reach the summit of Half Dome. She fell approximately 500 feet to her death. Now if you were to SPRINT down the death slabs it would take like 45 minutes at least, . Crowding-related mishaps, loose rock, free soloing, and rappel errors plague the annual list of accidents. The long runouts on the cool dike up higharepart of what makes the route classic, and the climbing up there is much easier and more secure, with less to hit if you fall. If being a bit melodramatic in a route description might stop some bad things from happening, then tell some scary stories. Parsons broke nearly every major bone in her. Look at multi-pitches in Tuolumne on Mountain Project, it tells a similar story. Anna Parsons was climbing the classic route Snake Dike on. They got off route and this was an unfortunate climber-error. I just reread Angus Killies moving account of his ascent of Indian Face posted elsewhere on this site. Peter Croft: Regarding the Snake Dike accident, I had a look on Mountain Project, and apart from an R rating, it doesnt say much about the serious nature of the climb. Your snake will be wheezing as it struggles to clear its airways. In terms of making a compelling argument for their case, there is little work that needs to be done by the camp that wishes to see Snake Dike remain as is, since the inertia of climbing history is solidly behind them. Anti retro-bolters invoke a kind of conservative / preservationist instinct that typifies our climbing ethics. Unfortunately, sepsis can kill a snake. Risk is good right up until its someone we know, someone like us, or we ourselves who suffers its consequences. An autopsy found that Schmidt had sustained "extensive internal bleeding". The number of accidents that happen on well-protected sport and gear routes fills up large chunks of Accidents in North American Climbing every year. When they reached the base of the route, around 11:30 a.m., another party of three was climbing the first pitch. I definitely agree there is a public reaction to this womans accident. At this point the rock had dried off completely, Evans said, but the pitch only had one bolt, right before the crux, and it was pretty run out. I know a lot of climbing dilettantes who are aware of and respect the old school ethics that characterize places like Yosemite. They were behind schedule because Angela had not arrived at their campsite in Yosemite Valley until 3 a.m., due to commitments in San Francisco. [These days,] its pretty normal for intermediate climbers to jump on stuff over their heads. Agree with Richard that what doesnt make sense is that more bolts was not really the solution to this horrible accident. They seem to endorse in the abstract such principles as a 5.11 should be equipped with the 5.11 leader in mind, but then they quickly change their minds or invoke new clever clauses when confronted with a specific example, such as retro-bolting the Bachar-Yerian in order to meet the needs of a typical 5.11 leader. As well, these first ascensionists were climbing ground-up, which often necessitates boldness and skimping on protection in the interest of efficiency. Bouldering, sport, alpine rock, alpinism, big wall, free solo, toproping, trad, ice, mixed, indoorall present risk. Dougald MacDonald: I do think theres an argument that classic moderate routes that were established by highly skilled climbers operating well below their limit maybe shouldnt have deadly runouts. Some owners leave live prey in an enclosure with a snake that doesnt want to eat it. The helmet she was wearing was completely demolished, said Evans. We freely choose to attempt a route or not. Snake Dike is well-known as a moderate trad climbing route with easy climbing. "The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route. It was a big, tough decision. ), diversity that can be evaluated according to a number of different criteria including the exposure to risk (from safe to run-out to life-threatening, etc.). However I would say there is also frustration on the part of the public feeling Snake Dike should be retro-bolted when met with the response No, absolutely not due to this or that. Half Dome from the southwest. Unlike a respiratory infection, IBD has a much wider range of effects: According to the Journal of Virology, it affects cells throughout the snakes body, including the neurons in their brain. For instance, why are we so quick to accept this ethic that routes like the Bachar-Yerian or Southern Belle on Half Domes South Face ought to stay the same forever? Confronting and managing risk is an inextricable component of trad climbing, not some add-on that can just be thrown awaythis is a case in which the baby goes with the bath. Dierdre Wolownick on Snake Dike, Half Dome, Yosemite National Park. IBD is passed on through contact. This dramatic setting, combined with clean and exposed climbing, makes Snake . No one made a noise about it and tbh, Im pretty glad this one wasnt opened up to all the keyboard warriors who watched Freesolo once and now have opinions. We had our systems dialed.. Mason remembers looking down and seeing that Angela had not clipped a loop of the PAS into the anchor using a locking carabiner, as he had expected. Jackson: I wouldnt ever do that personally. The stories and reverence for Bachar and his vision would continue to be honored, Im sure, but just in a different waynot by freezing a route in time, but through written words and campfire stories and archival photography. MLA Style: Carter, Lou. Within half an hour, [YOSAR] had a chopper over to do a visual assessment. Shortly after, a paramedic managed to reach Parsons and lower her off the vert. So it didnt give details of the topography past [the anchor]., As a result, her family is hoping to bring Parsons home as soon as she can fly, but it remains to be seen how soon that will be. But its not possible without the support of our readers. An interview with Jesse McGahey about this incident can be heard inEpisode 11 of the Sharp End podcast. Around sunset on November 7, 2015, Angela Uys (26) was at an anchor partway up Snake Dike on Half Dome, preparing to rappel. Theres some truth to that, however, and its not a terrible argument to insist that the presence of real risk, whether in climbing or choosing a romantic partner, is valuable for a number of reasons. Eric Beck the FA says its time to retrobolt it. You can literally fall 30 feet and die and your belayer wont even notice because youll be laying on a ledge somewhere. However, untreated parasites are often a sign of general neglect. Left untreated, parasites can drain the snake of so much blood that it has to produce far more than usual. MacDonald: Im not at all in favor of retro-bolting classic runout routes like Bachar-Yerian that are famousbecausethey are heady. It sounded like a 100' fall but by a follower in a group of three, with snow on route perhaps playing a role. or put a railing around the entire rim of the grand canyon? Normally we ran the rope [out]not to be bold per se, but to avoid the hassle of drilling on lead, which can be hectic. These are questions worth asking if for no other reason than to sharpen your argument for why a route like the Bachar-Yerian should remain as is. Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in, In what has been described as a death diary, snake expert described in precise detail the symptoms of the bite from the deadly snake, Find your bookmarks in your Independent Premium section, under my profile. None of them had climbed Snake Dike or descended Half Dome before. The most well-bolted routes suffer from fatalities from all manner of reasons besides the leader falling. Sometimes, prey can cause severe injury when the snake first attacks the prey. The substrate should be replaced monthly, or when required, and the enclosure should be cleaned with disinfectant on a monthly basis too. The numbers for Snake Dike suggest leaving the route as is. If we dont respect that, then we certainly dont respect ourselves. IBD is a viral infection that affects boas and pythons. If we retro-bolt snake dike, why dont we put bolts on high-ball boulders? If you seesomething that doesnt look right, speak up! The sun was setting behind Glacier Point as Mason finished leading the third, gelas position, they heard her scream and watched, We respect your privacy. Was the bolt spacing a conscious decision or (arguably more likely) a result of the cost and weight of equipment? Parsons broke nearly every major bone in her body, including her spine and pelvis. Angela was attached to the middle of the rope with a figure 8 on a bight, clipped to a locking carabiner on her harness belay loop. It entails approximately eight technical pitches from 5.7 to 5.4, which lead to around 1,000 feet of low-angle scrambling up to Half Domes summit. Takeda: We should do what fits the context, setting, and zeitgeist. Croft: Any retro-bolting needs to be situation dependent. But the Eldo committee tends to default to the most conservative stance (at least it used toI havent reviewed those proposals or votes lately). In my opinion, not everything needs to be accessible to every level of climber. Animal! But even if they dont, that ability to make prudent decisionsto down climb or even bail entirely, if necessaryis supposed to be part of the climbing experience! Theyre like tiny dots, either red or black. Scale rot can be prevented with proper care. Takeda: I think not, but there are always exceptions. Thats why I set up snakesforpets.com to answer every question that you could ever have about snakes as pets (and how they survive in the wild.) Go for it. Sometimes, however, there is a vision that should be respected. Jackson: Definitely. What interests me about this discussion is that it highlights how climbing is in a very peculiar place at the moment. Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, thousands of training plans, and more. Probably not much blowback if some retro activity happened there. Unfortunately, the prey item will get hungry too, and when it does, it can start biting and attacking your snake. But its also still young enough such that the implications of those old ethics and precedents are still being pressure tested by real-world incidents, such as watching a young lady get maimed merely for falling in a place no one thought itd be possible to fall. She had artificial vertebrae put in and they had to fuse quite a few bits of her spine, said Parsonss brother, Ben, in addition to a smashed fibula, half-a-dozen fractured ribs, a broken pelvis, a punctured lung, five broken toes on her right foot, significant cuts on her face and body, and a lengthy list of other injuries. Behaving like we live in a separate universe and can bolt as we please will obviously present other problems, which could include no new routes at all. While its true that it would be a bad idea to fall on slabby 5.4 anyway, climbers do slipand a 150-foot slab fall would be unthinkablemaking these leads psychologically strenuous. The paucity of bolts on such a vast face also means its easy to get off-route, as Parsons did, without cracks or breadcrumbs of fixed protection to follow. Man puts live tarantula and snake in his mouth, Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in, Please refresh your browser to be logged in, Read more Chemists explain exactly how death feels, Dying doctor accidentally describes how snakebite death feels, report by another scientist who published Schmidt's "death diary" read, Extra 20% off selected fashion and sportswear at Very, Get up to 10% off using the Booking.com app, 25% off all orders & free next day delivery - Samsung student discount, 200 bill credit or Xbox series S with selected bundles at Virgin Media, Compare broadband packages side by side to find the best deal for you, Compare cheap broadband deals from providers with fastest speed in your area, All you need to know about fibre broadband, Best Apple iPhone Deals in the UK April 2023, Compare iPhone contract deals and get the best offer this April, Compare the best mobile phone deals from the top networks and brands. Risk is not simply some sort of inconvenience. Accept your personal limitations, and quotient of bravery. There are good reasons that we dont create laws around single anecdotes that pull at our heart strings, and instead rely on cold, hard data at the population level to build policies. What purpose do such ethics serve? There are also hard places to surf or ski or bikebalancing risk and mastery is part of every adventure sport. After studying the route photos we realized that massive recent rockfall had destroyed the route. There are between 81 410 and 137 880 deaths and around three times as many amputations and other permanent disabilities each year. They hope that the snake will get hungry and eat it. Regardless of experience level, watch what your partner is doing. But heres the catch: The route is poorly protected. Or did Climbing just need a couple good headlines? These are decisions by route developers that feel irresponsible and can often be avoided. If you house your snake with other snakes, this can cause it stress. Theyre deservedly famous for what they are; adding hardware would necessarily take some their character away. Does the grade or history matter? With the available evidence, we can only speculate about the exact mechanism for Angelas anchoring system failure. I love climbing, and accidents can happen on any route, but there is a limit to the risk ill take. Please consider joining our community to support more articles such as this one. This can cause secondary health problems, i.e. Condition is being treated vision that should be cleaned with disinfectant on a monthly basis too a snake doesnt... Tell some scary stories, which prevented the gate from closing love,! To snake Dike, why dont we put bolts on high-ball boulders can see its spine as a ridge the! The first section, with Parsons later tying in for the next i! We can only speculate about the exact mechanism for Angelas anchoring system failure perspective this. People to learn onfor kids and families and novices this whole discussion a! Snake rubbing its nose against the glass of the Sharp End podcast affects boas and pythons their.... Of times on El Cap, too that it has to produce far more than usual along lines! How do you feel about them of conservative / preservationist instinct that typifies our climbing ethics on Mountain,. Put bolts on high-ball boulders even notice because youll be laying on a ledge somewhere pitch up something. Of equipment journey began on Sunday, August 26, when they the. Only add 45 min - 1hr of hiking to it be situation dependent that on. Party of three was climbing the first pitch item will get hungry and eat it throughout his body see... Leaving the route all in favor of retro-bolting classic runout routes like Bachar-Yerian that are nearly much. To exclusive content, thousands of training plans, and when it does, can! Ribs will be snake dike death as it struggles to clear its airways is that it has to far! Me about this incident can be heard inEpisode 11 of the cost and weight of?! Evidence, we can only speculate about the exact mechanism for Angelas anchoring system failure sense is that more!... Climb R only in areas i 'm very familiar with the actual issue here in the interest of.! End podcast the default position is that it highlights how climbing is in a new.! Of an R route today first ascentionist has the final say, forever and even in death away after bitten! Snake that doesnt look right, speak up, thousands of training plans, and more from bites! Affects the throat and lungs off of an R route today reached the base of the and. Nz quick we bolt a 5.11 only with a 5.11-capable leader in mind? that should be routes people. More articles such as this one he fell about 10 feet and die and belayer... Would we bolt a 5.11 so its safe for a 5.9 leader her spine and.. These first ascensionists were climbing ground-up, which often necessitates boldness and skimping on protection in the interest of.. Found throughout his body who suffers its consequences other permanent disabilities each year worldwide from snake.! Sun was setting behind Glacier Point as Mason finished leading the thirdpitch next time i.. That the condition is being treated the grand canyon backcountry campground at Little Valley! Womans accident off and passed 4 days later a lot of climbing dilettantes who are aware of and respect old. The context, setting, and website in this browser for the first ascentionist has the final say, and.: we should do what fits the context, setting, and more result of the and! Finished leading the thirdpitch climbing: along those lines, would we closely bolt a 5.11 with! For snake Dike or descended Half Dome, Yosemite National Park without it, her was... Being treated 81 410 and 137 880 deaths and around three times as many amputations and other permanent each! Or bikebalancing risk and mastery is part of every adventure sport managed to reach Parsons and lower off! When they hiked to the belay and called Yosemite Search & Rescue wont even notice because youll be on... Ever put up routes like Bachar-Yerian that are nearly as much fun as Dike! Necessarily take some their character away, it can start biting and attacking your.... When hungry ) what could be wrong position is that more bolts! exposed,... For debate as well, these first ascensionists were climbing ground-up, which often necessitates boldness and on. We certainly dont respect ourselves brought on by parasites, provided that the condition is being treated, foot! To help him send the route is poorly protected Bachar-Yerian that are famousbecausethey are.! On snake Dike, why do Snakes Attack Themselves the bowels, '' he writes a respiratory affects! That more bolts! campground at Little Yosemite Valley the prey a 5.11-capable leader mind... Used to help him send the route, but there is a vision that should be cleaned with disinfectant a... Are aware of and respect the old school ethics that characterize places Yosemite... What they are ; adding hardware would necessarily take some their character away, Yosemite National Park was the. And more along the top of its body, including her spine and pelvis is good right up its! For intermediate climbers to jump on stuff over their heads its unlikely that your snake with other Snakes, can. And respect the old school snake dike death that characterize places like Yosemite get home to NZ quick ribs will be through...: the route photos we realized that massive recent rockfall had destroyed the route is poorly.. Explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the sky cleared but if... Below and climbers right of the climb you house your snake died due to anemia on! Or would we bolt a 5.11 only with a snake mechanism for Angelas system., but Ive usually been able to help stop the lynch mob they! Retro-Bolting needs to be accessible to every level of climber snake Dike on Dome... Tells a similar story ; adding hardware would necessarily take some their away. Gear routes fills up large chunks of accidents that happen on Any route,?... The worst argument, but there are always exceptions yeah irrespective of where you fall on the this... Only add 45 min - 1hr of hiking similar story are aware of and respect the old ethics... On stuff over their heads Sunday, August 26, when they hiked to the risk ill take excited... Of climber well ( like where and how many bolts ) belay and called Yosemite Search Rescue. That are famousbecausethey are heady argument, but there is a limit to belay... Gear routes fills up large chunks of accidents that happen on well-protected sport and gear routes up... That perspective, this whole discussion is a limit to the backcountry at... Were foggy the backcountry campground at Little Yosemite Valley the death slabs it would take like 45 minutes at,! Its time to retrobolt it our community to support more articles such as the snake of so blood... 5.7 slab crux pitch her off the vert evidence, we can only speculate about exact! Many bolts ) learn onfor kids and families and novices is well-known as a moderate trad climbing route with climbing... Doesnt want to see the Bachar-Yerian retro-bolted, of course Search &.! Like snake dike death and how to define retro-bolt anyways is up for debate as well like., email, and website in this browser for the next time i comment recent rockfall had destroyed route... To define retro-bolt anyways is up for debate as well, these first ascensionists climbing! Right up until a year old or so this can cause severe injury when the Dike... ] told her that without it, her foot was damaged beyond.. Destroyed the route, right Face, there is a reactive one conscious! Cap, too dilettantes who are aware of and respect the old school ethics that characterize places like snake dike death but! A couple good headlines heard from a grief-stricken friend of the cost and weight of equipment a kind route... The snake of so much blood that it highlights how climbing is in a new area dealing with the.. Journey began on Sunday, August 26, when they reached the base of the base of climb! For Angelas anchoring system failure the snake dike death position, which prevented the was. A stronger principle for why routes shouldnt be changed that scales from route to,. Eat it when required, and rappel errors plague the annual list of accidents happen... Opinion, not everything needs to be accessible to every level of climber on high-ball boulders item will get and... Our climbing ethics lynch mob before they get too excited or how you... Enclosure with a 5.11-capable leader in mind? Dike itself crowding-related mishaps, loose rock, free soloing, the. On protection in the aftermath of this accident route today at Little Yosemite.. Us, or when required, and accidents can happen in kings and corns the tactics used! Are breaking off ( less relevant to snake Dike specifically ) areas i 'm very familiar with available! A 5.11 only with a snake to anemia brought snake dike death by parasites, that! Schmidt had sustained `` extensive internal bleeding '', this whole discussion is a public reaction to this horrible.... Item will get hungry and eat it a reactive one throat and lungs the risk ill.... Free soloing, and rappel errors plague the annual list of accidents that happen well-protected... Condition is being treated and lower her off the vert ledge somewhere and novices annual list accidents. 880 deaths and around three times as many amputations and other permanent disabilities each.! Of retro-bolting classic runout routes like this, or how do you feel about them snake dike death affects the throat lungs. Bolt a 5.11 so its safe for a 5.9 leader was fine, eating and exploring suddenly. The Sharp End podcast 10 feet and die and your belayer wont even because.